July 14
We left Sequoia and Kings Canyon NP and headed down into Fresno, CA for an oil change on the truck, to replace our badly worn rear camper tires, and to top off our propane tanks. After another grocery stop we continued on to Yosemite National Park, CA.
Yosemite has four geographic areas, High Sierra, granite cliffs, sequoia groves, and the Valley. The Valley alone is world-famous for its impressive waterfalls, cliffs, unusual rock formations, and the valley floor with the meandering Merced River. Among the astounding sights are Half Dome and El Capitan, the famous granite monolith that attracts climbers from all over the world.
We entered the park at the southern entrance near Wawona. This area has the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias. After about 185 miles we pulled into our campsite at Crane Flat Campground, 16 miles NW of the Valley. Back in February and March we tried hard to get a reservation in the Valley, but its campgrounds book up immediately once the reservation window opens. The campsite was huge enough, but because of the side-to-side slope we wasted an incredible amount of time trying to get the camper close to level. We simply didn’t have enough leveling blocks with us. We parked in a different spot, a different angle, we raised and lowered the dirt. Once we finally had a close enough solution, we realized that we couldn’t quite open our awning all the way because of a tree. So we had to start fresh, not once, but twice. In the end we used our hydraulic jack to raise one side of the camper so we could properly place the blocks beneath the tires. We were all very dirty from working and maneuvering on the dusty forest floor. So, by far this was the worst camper setup we have ever had (and we are no longer amateurs at this) and everyone was in a corresponding mood.
July 15
In the morning we drove the 16 miles into Yosemite Valley and stopped at 620 foot tall Bridalveil Falls A short paved trail leads you near the base of the falls. We continued on Southside Drive into the Valley, stopped at the visitor center, and watched a movie about the park. Along Northside Dr, we walked the 1-mile paved Lower Yosemite Fall Trail that takes you to the base. Yosemite Creek plunges 2,425 ft down into the Valley via the Upper Yosemite Fall (1,430 ft), the middle cascades 675 ft), and the Lower Yosemite Fall (320 ft). A quick stop along the Merced River convinced us that a day of floating and swimming would be a good way to recover from the next day’s extremely strenuous hike to the top of famous Half Dome.
July 16
Because to the incredible number of people hiking to Half Dome and up to its top via the cables in the past years, the National Park Service instituted the lottery system. Now only 300 people a day are allowed to ascend the Dome. We had entered the lottery early in the year and were lucky to get four tickets. We got up at 5 am, drove to the Valley, parked near the Nature Center at Happy Isles, and began our hike at 6 am. Taking the strenuous, very steep, 7-mile Mist Trail with lots of steps, we passed 317 ft Vernal Fall. Continuing on we could see 594 ft Nevada Fall ahead. After several more hours and much more strenuous hiking, we finally reached the base of Half Dome. Our legs and feet ached. At this point the even more demanding part of the hike begins up the east side of Half Dome, 900 ft of very steep climbing up switchbacks made of large granite steps. Looking at what was ahead, we were not sure if we could make it.
Finally after about 7 hours we came to the level shoulder of the Dome, ate some lunch and briefly rested before assessing the final 400 ft cable climb to the top. Ethan decided he wasn’t going up which unfortunately meant either Esther or William had to stay behind with him. Liam was excited to climb the cables. William didn’t want to deny Esther the opportunity as she had been more excited about Half Dome from the beginning. Liam and Esther tied a rope with a carabiner around their waists, put on gloves, and began the final 400 ft climb. Two steel cables are suspended about 3 ft apart at arm’s height from pipes set in the rock about every 10-15 feet. We were glad to use our arms instead of our tired legs for a change to help pull us up the steep, slick granite. We had to periodically make ourselves skinny to allow people descending to get by. Thunderstorms were threatening, not a good time to climb an exposed mountain top. In fact the ranger turned climbers away shortly after we began the climb. Once at the relatively flat and level top at 8,836 ft, the views of Yosemite Valley and the surrounding mountains were spectacular. A protruding rock named The Diving Board juts precariously over the Valley. Liam didn’t dare go all the way to the end unlike a few other adventurous people we saw. We saw lightning and heard thunder nearby and decided not to linger. The descent was easy and exhilarating. A guy behind us had terrible traction with his sneakers and pretty much slid down the face of Half Dome from pipe to pipe. Thankfully he didn’t slide out of control and into us. At least the rope and carabiners would have prevented us from plunging to our deaths.
The hike back down was strenuous in a different way, tough on the knees. The trail parallels the Merced River for a while. We took the opportunity to take a break and cool our feet. Shortly after, Ethan spied a rattlesnake slithering right next to the trail. The snake retreated under a log and curled up ready to defend himself. Near beautiful Nevada Fall we took the 8.2-mile John Muir Trail back down to the Valley. This trail is longer than the Mist Trail but we preferred the many switchbacks and more gradual slope to the steep, tall steps. In total we hiked 15.3 miles over 11 ½ hours with an elevation gain of 4,400 feet. We were tired!
July 17
We took a break today by swimming and tubing along the Merced River. We stopped at a pullout right below El Capitan. In the afternoon, Rosa and Nicole arrived and we all spent the rest of the day at the campsite. Rosa and Nicole slept in a tent although we offered them space on the dinette and couch beds. Much past the posted quiet hours, William had to politely “yell” at campers behind us because they were being really inconsiderate neighbors. For some reason we seem to always attract the most obnoxious campers.
July 18
While Rosa and Nicole hung out along the Merced River we drove to Glacier Point, an overlook at 7,214 feet 30 miles from Yosemite Valley. One has an amazing view over the Valley 3,214 ft below, Half Dome, and Yosemite’s high country. It was truly breathtaking. One can see where the two glaciers, Tenaya and Merced Glaciers, carved the two valleys on either side of Half Dome. Esther said she could have stayed at the overlook all day to absorb the incredible scenery.
July 19
All of us headed back to the nice spot along the Merced River Nicole found the day before. While Rosa stayed on the shore with a sore knee, we all swam and tubed the small rapids repeatedly. When we got a bit cool we climbed to the top of a big rock in the middle of the river to warm up on the sun-heated granite. We had a great time.
At night a new set of campers were behind us,even worse and more inconsiderate than the last family. This time we endured the noise.
The Davids' Cross-Country Trip 